Climbing Mount Elbrus

Mount Elbrus is a dormant volcano located in Southern Russia, in the Caucasus Mountains. It is the highest point above sea level in Europe, at 5,642 meters. It has two peaks, both of which are volcanic domes. It is the 10th most prominent mountain in the world. Due to its height, being taller than any mountain in Europe, it is listed among the “Seven Summits”. The Seven Summits is comprised of each of Earth’s continent’s highest peak.

Elbrus in Legend and Mythology

This mountain has gone by different names in its history, as it was talked about, written about, and witnessed by various different peoples and cultures. The Balkars, the local people of the area, to this day call it “Mingi-Tau”, which means “resembling a thousand mountains”. It had also been called by the Latin name “Soblius”, meaning “pine cone”. It was also known to the Persian mythology, and was called “Harā Bərəzaitī”.

There is a myth about this mountain in the ancient religion of Zoroastrianism. It claims that Elbrus helped bring the earth into existence. “…As the evil spirit rushed in, the earth shook, and the substance of mountains was created in the earth. First, Mount Alburz arose; afterwards, the other ranges of mountains of the middle of the earth; for as Alburz grew forth all the mountains remained in motion, for they have all grown forth from the root of Alburz…” -Bundahishn.

A Mark of Victory

In the midst of World War II, tensions between Nazi Germany and Soviet Russia were high. The Germans had failed to capture Moscow in 1941. The Caucasus region stood in between them, including Mount Elbrus. The German army, once they realized they couldn’t take Moscow easily at that point, decided to focus on the Caucuses instead.

Even though taking Mount Elbrus had no strategic value for the Germans, a number of officers and soldiers ascended this mountain anyway. They wanted to take the highest point in Europe, as a mark of their further domination. This was not under the orders of Adolf Hitler; in fact, he was furious when he found out that his troops had diverged from the main mission to plant a flag on a mountain.

Nazi Germany was so powerful that the flag planted on a peak as high as Elbrus signified their apparent dominance over Europe. Even though this did not last long, the Soviet Union themselves used Elbrus for this purpose too. The Soviet army took back Elbrus in February 1943, and the Soviet flag was planted on the mountain, signifying victory. Soon after, the USSR itself began to be the conqueror of Europe, and other parts of the world.

A Challenge for Mountaineers

The first person to ascend Elbrus was Khillar Khachirov in 1829, who climbed the east summit. The west summit was first ascended in 1874 by a British expedition led by F. Crauford Grove. In 1956, a group of 400 climbers ascended the mountain to commemorate the 400th anniversary of Kabardino-Balkaria, the regional Soviet Republic.

Mount Elbrus remains the highest peak on Earth up which a vehicle has ascended. In 1997 a Russian mountaineering team led by Alexander Abramov brought a land rover to the top of the mountain. They were able to drive it up almost the whole way, breaking a world record. This peak has also been ascended by ATV, by two Russian climbers in 2016.

Climbing Elbrus

Climbing this particular mountain is very attractive to people. It has a very high peak, which itself makes people want to do something majestic and break personal records by climbing one of the tallest mountains in the world. Also, though, it’s slopes are relatively less steep than most mountains of this height, making the climb a little less difficult than might be expected. Nevertheless, a trek up Elbrus requires plenty of preparation.

The normal climbing season is from around the end of April or mid-May, until about the beginning or end of September. Climbing is easier in the warmer months, from June to August.

The most common route to take is on the south side. It is easier than the other routes. There are cable cars and chairlifts on this side. The north side is the more difficult route. It has none of this equipment, and the route itself is a bit steeper, and has some dangerous parts. Climbers need to cross a glacier, and know how to avoid crevasses.

The weather on the mountain is something to think about and plan ahead for. It is pretty unpredictable, as it can change rapidly. Watch out for drastic changes in temperature come nightfall, along with wind and snowstorms.

You need to be in shape to climb Elbrus. Proper physical preparation is needed, such as regular exercise in the time leading up to the expedition. Not only does the long trek up test your endurance, but the harsh weather is also something to consider. You’ll also need to get used to the altitude. Usually, climbers of Elbrus take a few acclimatization treks before the summit trek. With a mountain this high, acclimatization is necessary, perhaps 3 or more days.

Mount Elbrus has significance in many ways. It has a long history, many expeditions, stories about it, and frequent visits by those who want to experience such a powerful natural monument. It is just a mountain, but its prominence has made marks in people’s lives, cultures, and the course of history. Perhaps you can make your own story on the mountain “resembling a thousand mountains”.

 

Photos by Tigran Shahbazyan

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